
FAQ's
Most Common HVAC Questions and Answers
These are the most frequently asked questions about HVAC, Sizing, and More. Please feel free to contact us if you don’t see your question answered below.

Listen and address customers concerns. Diagnose, test, educate and provide all the information needed to make an informed descisionon customized solutions for you and your family. The rest is up to you.
The heating and cooling systems are sized according to their tonnage. One (1) ton equals 12,000 BTU/H. Residential systems can range from 1 to 5 tons.
Contrary to popular belief their, is no rule of thumb for sizing a system to a home. Depending upon the construction of your home, one (1) ton of air conditioning can cool anywhere from 300 to 800 square feet of home. The only way to insure the size of the system you purchasewill be large enough to cool your home, but not any larger then you need, is to have your home's individual heating and cooling needs engineered by a licensed professional.
The S.E.E.R ( seasonal energy efficiency ratio ) is the amount of cooling your system will deliver per dollar spent on electricity. It can be equated to MPG the more efficient the vehicle. For example, a 3-ton unit may have a S.E.E.R efficiency rating of 13, 14, or 1. The higher the S.E.E.R. the more efficent the system will be. The S.E.E.R. rating of any given unit can range anywhere from 13 to 17+.
No. A larger system with more capacity delivers less comfort and costs more to operate. An air conditioner is at its least efficient when first turning on. A system with too much capacity will run in numerous short cycels, turing on and off repeatedly, therefore causing it to be less efficient. Also keep in mind that an air conditioner only removes humidity when it's running, so a system with shorter run cycels doesn't remove humidity from the air very well.
The most important thing you can do is clean and replace your filters frequently. Also, a system heats and cools more evenly when the blower is in the "on" position. The blower provides constant air movement throughout the home, and allowsf or better filtration. Shades, drapes, shutters, or screens should be installed on windows that are exposed to extreme sunlight. Finally getting on a regular routine service and maintenance program is beneficial to the longevity and performance of your home comfort system.
There is no exact answer for how long your system should run in a cycle. The average conditioner is sized to remove the heat from your home as fast as it comes in, on a 95 day. Therefore, ideally, on a 95 day the system should be able to keep up with the incoming heat, but not gain on it and be able to turn off. The cooler it is below 95, the more the system will cycle on and off.
Every time your system starts up, it will use a lot of electricity and not produce much cooling. Usually a system that is too small to cool the home is more economical to run but delivers less comfort. Even though it runs nonstop, it will usually consume less power than a larger system that cycles on and off. As a rule of thumb, a unit that is either on or off is less expensive than one cycling on and off.
The air temperature your system produces depends on the temperature of the air going into the system. Generally, the air produced should be 18°-20° below what enters the system. So if the air entering the system is 80°, the air exiting should be about 60°-62°. However, that only works on a system that has been running at least 15 minutes on a warm, dry day with a home that is about 80° inside. On a mild day, with an indoor temperature in the low 70’s, or during humid conditions, the air coming out may only be 15°-17° cooler than what enters.
Obviously the time of year becomes a big factor for desired temperature settings. In the summer months the average temperature setting is 78°-80°, in the winter 70°-72° seems to be the most common setting. Remember, when leaving your house, try to avoid drastic temperature changes. Do not set your temperature back more than 5°; this will cause your unit to work harder to achieve the desired temperature setting.
Different Smart programmable thermostats offer many different features. However, because they are Smart, they are all more accurate and efficient than previous thermostats that contain mercury. With Smart programmable thermostats you can control the temperature in your home at different times of day without ever touching your thermostat. Because everything is automatic, you will never forget to change the setting on your own.
For optimum efficiency and filtration, we recommend that you replace your disposable filters at least once a month. If you have washable filters, they should be cleaned once a month and dried completely before reinstalling.
The most important maintenance you can do is to change your filters regularly. Flush your condensation removal system with vinegar and warm water. Ground mounted outdoor units need to be kept clear of debris, clutter; weeds or landscaping that can grow too close and reduce the airflow to the unit. Also, keep pets away from the unit because pet urine can cause expensive damage. Use caution with a weed trimmer around the unit to prevent damaging control wiring. Any additional maintenance should only be performed by qualified personnel.
You should have maintenance done on your air conditioning system twice a year. This not only ensures maximum efficiency, it enables us to foresee any possible problems that may occur in the near future. Our Essential Service Program (ESP) plan is specifically designed to keep your air conditioning system running at its peak efficiency year-round.
Yes. Check to be sure that the air handler or furnace is plugged in. Check that the breakers and the disconnects are turned on and be sure the thermostat is set correctly.
Due to the many different makes, models and customer needs, price is an issue that can only be solved by doing a thorough evaluation of your home and existing equipment along with a needs and wants assessment. There is no charge for an in-house Home Comfort replacement evaluation.
Yes. Several manufactures have developed new systems that contain the environmentally friendly R410A, or Puron, refrigerant.
Yes, they can actually play a big part in your complete home comfort. We have a variety of whole-house filtration devices. Some electronic air cleaners can even remove dust particles and pollen as small as .10 micron. Contact us for more Indoor Air Quality information.
No. Closing the registers will decrease the systems’ airflow and efficiency. Every system is designed to cool a certain number of square feet. By closing registers and doors in certain rooms, you disrupt the airflow and cause your air conditioning system to work harder to distribute air to other areas of your home. Your system will work harder, to cool less space, making it cycle more and become less efficient, potentially causing premature failures to system components.
When cool outdoor air enters a home it tends to dry out as it warms up, which increases the static electricity in the home and causes sinus problems. Adding a humidifier with help to add moisture back into the air and limit sinus problems. In the summer, even with outdoor relative humidity hovering around the single digits, the humidity in your home tends to be around 40%. The average comfort range for relative humidity in a home is from 35 to 45%.
Yes, this is normal. A heat pump generally produces air that is 80°, which is considered warm, and will heat the house evenly. However, 80° may feel cool to your hand, which is usually closer to 90°.
Yes. During the cold weather months, frost will accumulate on the outdoor coil. This will cause the heat pump to go into a defrost cycle anywhere from 1-10 minutes, depending on the amount of ice on the coil. If equipped the Auxiliary Heat coils should activate for this short period of time. The system will return to the heating mode once the ice is gone.
Any contractor you hire should calculate the size of the cooling equipment you need by using such recognized methods as the Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA) Manual J. Finding a trustworthy contractor to install and service an air-conditioning system matters the most. Be leery of a contractor who bases estimates merely on house size or vague rules of thumb. The HVAC system is arguably the most complex system installed in a house and the total house energy use. A full HVAC design involves more than just the load estimate calculation. The load calculation is the first step of the iterative HVAC design procedure. After initial equipment selection, several adjustments to duct design and equipment selection may be needed to optimize the design. Before purchasing a replacement system you should always make sure your system is sized properly for your home and comfort needs. Our representative will provide a detailed and thorough Home Comfort Engineering Analysis to determine the proper size and make the appropriate recommendation. Remember, bigger is not always better.
Everything comes out of our standardized price manual. This is your assurance that we’re not looking at you, trying to determine how much money you’ve got, or making the price up as we go along, or charging different prices by the neighborhood. With the exception of our Essential Service Program (ESP) service agreement customers, everyone pays the same rate. My duty is to charge you the least amount of money possible, to get the job done right the first time every time!
